There are four ways of fixing glass to main frame of the cab.
1.(B) BONDED (Direct Glazing)
The glass is secured in position by using a special glazing adhesive.
2.(BLT) BOLT-ON
The glass will have holes drilled in certain places to be secured to a frame by a series of bolts or screws which in turn will be fixed to the cab or if the glass is opening there will be a hinge point, usually at the top of the glass in two places (some smaller side windows may hinge on the side of the glass), this allows the glass to open and close, but at the same time be held in position (in most cases there should be a rubber grommet placed through the hole in the glass). Around the edge of the glass, or cab frame, you will need a rubber knock-on (K) draught excluder (A5012). More commonly the knock-on fits around the glass. If you need to replace this, see Glazing Rubber section (A5012). We strongly recommend that you do replace the knock-on, which fits around the glass because it is very likely that small pieces of the broken glass will be left in the knock-on and this may shorten the life of your new glass.
When fitting the knock-on to the glass, make sure that the soft, round bubble edge will be facing the inside of the cab when the glass is in position, because this is what seals the glass when it is shut against the cab frame. You will need a rubber mallet to knock the rubber on to the glass. Make sure that the rubber is knocked on tightly.
3.(F) FRAMED
The glass is supplied in its own metal frame which is joined in all corners to keep the glass secure, this in turn is fitted to the cab and held in position by a series of clips which are already on the cab frame or door frame.
4.(GR) GLAZING RUBBER
There are two main types of glazing rubber, which come in various shapes and sizes, but principally they do the same job and that is to hold the glass into position against the metal frame and at the same time act as a seal. Certain types of these glazing rubbers are available, see Glazing Rubber section.
1] S-TYPE
This is a one piece glazing rubber. The glass will stand proud of the frame and will be slightly over size to the space it is going to fill. This will be a two-man job if you are unable to remove the frame from the cab (e.g. remove the door from the cab so that you are replacing the glass at ground level, possibly on a bench).
First push the widest side of the rubber around the edge of the glass, cut off the excess rubber so that the two ends meet together exactly. On the other side of the rubber push in a length of cord (string or nylon), which is longer than the length of rubber, making sure that the two ends over lap each other by about 15 cm (6 inches). Place the glass over the frame making sure that the cord will be on the inside of the cab when in position (in other words when you have finished the job, the glass will be standing proud on the outside of the cab, not inside).
Whilst one person is pushing the glass against the frame from the outside, the other person (from the inside of the cab) locates one end of the cord and very carefully pulls the cord out of the rubber, making sure that the rubber goes over the lip of the frame all the way around. The glass should now be held in position by the rubber alone. The job is now complete.
2] H-TYPE
This is a two-piece glazing rubber, the main part is the H shape and the other part is a small infill beading. The glass will fit level inside the frame so therefore it will be smaller than the space it is going to fill. This will be either a job for one person or two depending on the size of the glass (e.g. windscreen size will need two people).
First push the smallest side of the H section rubber on to the frame, ensuring that the groove or V shape in the rubber is facing upwards (in other words when you have finished the job the V shape in the rubber, which is for the infill beading, will be on the outside of the cab and not inside), cut off the excess rubber so that the two ends meet together exactly. Now you must put the glass into the widest part of the H section of the rubber.
Start by pushing one corner into the rubber in its correct position. Very carefully push the glass into the rubber all the way around making sure that the glass seats in between the large recess of the rubber, at the same time, pushing down gently on the glass, which will help locate the glass into the rubber.
When the glass is seated in the rubber comfortably all the way round you must now put the infill beading in the V of the main rubber (we recommend you start at the opposite side to where the join of the main rubber is). This is to spread the main part of the rubber to grip and hold the glass in position. To do this you will need to open up the V part in the main rubber to allow the infill beading to seat properly (to do this we recommend lubricant such as liquid soap to help the infill beading to locate easier, also a tool such as a screw driver or special tool with a hook or eye will help to make the job easier, please contact us for further advice).
When the two ends meet cut off the excess of the infill beading rubber so that the two ends meet exactly together. The glass should now be held in position by the rubber alone. The job is now complete.
1.(B) BONDED (Direct Glazing)
The glass is secured in position by using a special glazing adhesive.
2.(BLT) BOLT-ON
The glass will have holes drilled in certain places to be secured to a frame by a series of bolts or screws which in turn will be fixed to the cab or if the glass is opening there will be a hinge point, usually at the top of the glass in two places (some smaller side windows may hinge on the side of the glass), this allows the glass to open and close, but at the same time be held in position (in most cases there should be a rubber grommet placed through the hole in the glass). Around the edge of the glass, or cab frame, you will need a rubber knock-on (K) draught excluder (A5012). More commonly the knock-on fits around the glass. If you need to replace this, see Glazing Rubber section (A5012). We strongly recommend that you do replace the knock-on, which fits around the glass because it is very likely that small pieces of the broken glass will be left in the knock-on and this may shorten the life of your new glass.
When fitting the knock-on to the glass, make sure that the soft, round bubble edge will be facing the inside of the cab when the glass is in position, because this is what seals the glass when it is shut against the cab frame. You will need a rubber mallet to knock the rubber on to the glass. Make sure that the rubber is knocked on tightly.
3.(F) FRAMED
The glass is supplied in its own metal frame which is joined in all corners to keep the glass secure, this in turn is fitted to the cab and held in position by a series of clips which are already on the cab frame or door frame.
4.(GR) GLAZING RUBBER
There are two main types of glazing rubber, which come in various shapes and sizes, but principally they do the same job and that is to hold the glass into position against the metal frame and at the same time act as a seal. Certain types of these glazing rubbers are available, see Glazing Rubber section.
1] S-TYPE
This is a one piece glazing rubber. The glass will stand proud of the frame and will be slightly over size to the space it is going to fill. This will be a two-man job if you are unable to remove the frame from the cab (e.g. remove the door from the cab so that you are replacing the glass at ground level, possibly on a bench).
First push the widest side of the rubber around the edge of the glass, cut off the excess rubber so that the two ends meet together exactly. On the other side of the rubber push in a length of cord (string or nylon), which is longer than the length of rubber, making sure that the two ends over lap each other by about 15 cm (6 inches). Place the glass over the frame making sure that the cord will be on the inside of the cab when in position (in other words when you have finished the job, the glass will be standing proud on the outside of the cab, not inside).
Whilst one person is pushing the glass against the frame from the outside, the other person (from the inside of the cab) locates one end of the cord and very carefully pulls the cord out of the rubber, making sure that the rubber goes over the lip of the frame all the way around. The glass should now be held in position by the rubber alone. The job is now complete.
2] H-TYPE
This is a two-piece glazing rubber, the main part is the H shape and the other part is a small infill beading. The glass will fit level inside the frame so therefore it will be smaller than the space it is going to fill. This will be either a job for one person or two depending on the size of the glass (e.g. windscreen size will need two people).
First push the smallest side of the H section rubber on to the frame, ensuring that the groove or V shape in the rubber is facing upwards (in other words when you have finished the job the V shape in the rubber, which is for the infill beading, will be on the outside of the cab and not inside), cut off the excess rubber so that the two ends meet together exactly. Now you must put the glass into the widest part of the H section of the rubber.
Start by pushing one corner into the rubber in its correct position. Very carefully push the glass into the rubber all the way around making sure that the glass seats in between the large recess of the rubber, at the same time, pushing down gently on the glass, which will help locate the glass into the rubber.
When the glass is seated in the rubber comfortably all the way round you must now put the infill beading in the V of the main rubber (we recommend you start at the opposite side to where the join of the main rubber is). This is to spread the main part of the rubber to grip and hold the glass in position. To do this you will need to open up the V part in the main rubber to allow the infill beading to seat properly (to do this we recommend lubricant such as liquid soap to help the infill beading to locate easier, also a tool such as a screw driver or special tool with a hook or eye will help to make the job easier, please contact us for further advice).
When the two ends meet cut off the excess of the infill beading rubber so that the two ends meet exactly together. The glass should now be held in position by the rubber alone. The job is now complete.
